MONTENEGRO: Seafood Stew (Brodet) over No-Stir Polenta with Wilted Cabbage Salad (Kupus Salata)

Kotor Bay is one of my top vacation spots so I might be biased, but this was also one of my top ten OWW dinners. To be fair, the polenta preparation does not come from the region, but it's generally how I make it, as it is much easier than the stovetop, constantly-stir methods. For both recipes, water works instead of seafood stock, but as the stock heightens the dish and does double duty, if you can get it, I suggest going for it.

Seafood Stew (Brodet)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion

2 garlic cloves

1 lemon

1 bay leaf

2 tablespoons tomato paste

3 medium tomatoes or one can, ~14-oz canned whole tomatoes

1 cup fish stock OR 1 teaspoon vegetable bouillon paste with 1 cup water

½ cup dry white wine

1 teaspoon table salt

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 lbs mixed fish and seafood, ideally 3 types, including a few types of firm white fish, shrimp, and/or cleaned mussels or clams

1 small bunch fresh parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat the oil in a large lidded sauté pan or Dutch oven over a medium heat. Chop the onion and add it to the pan, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes, or until soft and translucent.

2. While the onion cooks, mince the garlic. Cut the lemon in half, and use a vegetable peeler to remove 2-3 lemon zest strips (from one half). When the onion is soft, add the garlic, zest, bay leaf and tomato paste to the pan and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute until the onions are coated in the tomato paste.

3. Chop the tomatoes, and add them, the fish stock or bouillon and water, the wine, the salt, and a grind of black pepper to the pan.

4. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally and crushing the tomatoes as you do, for 10-12 minutes, or until the tomatoes have broken down and the sauce has reduced by about half.

5. Turn the heat to medium-low. Add the vinegar and fish, other than mussels or clams, if using. The fish will not be fully submerged, as this is not a very brothy stew, but spread them out eveninly to ensure they are all at least partially in the liquid. Cover with the lid and cook for 15 minutes, or until the fish is cooked through but still firm. Do NOT stir, just shake pan gently every few minutes. If using mussels or clams, add them about 10 minutes in and discard any that have not opened up after 5 minutes.

6. Take off the heat, remove the bay leaf, and stir in the parsley, leaving some out for garnish.

7. Serve over soft polenta.

No-Stir Polenta

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup coarse-ground polenta (not instant or quick-cooking)

1 teaspoon table salt

4 cups seafood stock or water

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Salt and pepper to taste

1. Heat oven to 350° F. Drizzle the olive oil into a cast-iron skillet or 3-4-quart casserole pan. Use your hands or a paper towel to spread the oil evenly on the bottom and sides.

2. Add the polenta, salt, and 4 cups of seafood stock or water to the pan and use a fork to gently stir.

3. Bake, uncovered, for 40 minutes.

4. Cut the butter into cubes and whisk into the polenta. Return to the oven for 5 more minutes. Whisk again, then taste and season with additional salt as needed. Serve immediately.

Cabbage Salad (Kupus Salata)

1 small head, ~1½-2 lbs, green cabbage

1½ tablespoons white wine or apple cider vinegar

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoons table salt

½ teaspoon granulated white sugar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

Pinch black pepper

1. Remove the outer leaves and core from the cabbage and shred the remainder. Place in a large bowl and toss with the olive oil and vinegar.

2. Use your hands to squeeze the cabbage. Place in fridge 30 minutes-1 hour.

3. Season with salt and sugar. Add parsley and black pepper. Toss and serve.

   
   

#fishstew #brodet #polenta #cabbage #kupussalata #montenegro

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FUN FACTS:

• Tara River Canyon in Montenegro is the deepest canyon in Europe and second deepest globally after the Grand Canyon. And Kotor Bay is not a fjord, but a submerged canyon.

• The Old Olive Tree in Bar has stood for more 2,000 years, making it one of the oldest olive trees alive.

• In 1902 King Nikola was rumored to have lost almost the entire state treasury of Montenegro in a casino in France. He had to borrow money from a Russian Tsar to save the country.